Partition a Single Mac OS Extended (Journaled) Drive into 2 Partitions for Sentry Mode and Audio on Model 3

Burden: About 5 minutes, depending on size of drive.

Before You Begin

  • Considering using a high-endurance drive for Sentry Mode, because of the many writes this feature performs. Do an online search for “high endurance drive”.
  • Regardless of the drive you use, everything on it will be removed once you’re done with this tutorial.

1 — Partitioning Drive

  • Launch Disk Utility.
  • From the left rail, click the drive you’d like to partition.
  • Click Partition along the top row of options.
  • Set an initial partition size by either clicking the plus sign (+) under the round graphic on the left or entering a number to the right of the Size option under Partition Information. You’ll then be able to modify the sizes further by moving the slider along the periphery of the round graphic on the left.
  • Click the white section of each partition in the round graphic to set Name and Format. Make sure to set the Format option to MS-DOS (FAT).


  • Click Apply and then verify your changes by clicking Partition.

2 — Setup The Sentry-Specific Folder

In the partition on which you’ve chosen to store videos, create a folder called TeslaCam. Note that this folder is case-sensitive.

After you insert this drive into your car, Tesla will create three sub folders in the TeslaCam folder: RecentClips, SavedClips, SentryClips.

3 — Add Music to The Audio Partition

And, finally, add your music to the partition on which you’ve chosen to store audio/music.

Get 1,000 Free Supercharging Miles

If you find this, or any of my other Tesla-related posts, useful, and you decide to purchase a Tesla, consider using the following referral link to get 1,000 free supercharging miles:

https://www.tesla.com/referral/roy82744

If working with a Tesla representative, use code roy82744.

Model 3 Brakes Squeal When Reversing and Turning in Humid Weather

About three weeks after taking delivery of my Model 3, I began encountering brake squealing under very specific conditions:

  • The car is sitting for a few hours.
  • The weather is humid.
  • The car is slowly going in reverse.
  • The car is turning.

Here’s audio of the problem:

Audio of Brake Squealing When Model 3 is Reversing and Wheels are Being Turned

I’ve worked on brakes myriad times over the past decades and this kind of problem usually happens when condensation accumulates on the caliper brackets. And, it happens when braking in any direction (forward or reverse), regardless of whether the wheels are being turned or not.

Thus, it’s strange that the squealing only occurs while reversing and turning the wheels. I have two theories, both involving the lack of caliper grease. One is simple: The caliper brackets need more caliper grease.

The second is more involved and explains more of what might be the problem. The calipers and/or the caliper brackets shift out of place when the brakes are applied in reverse and the car is turning, indicating that the calipers and/or the brackets may not be set properly, or that the brakes’ structural housing is faulty. In this extreme position, the brake parts slide along a section that lacks grease. And thus, the squealing.

This problem is had by many. Read the posts on Tesla’s forums about Brakes screech only when I’m backing up

And, lastly, I had to insist that Tesla in Milford, where I went for service, keep my car for observation over many days to replicate the issue, as they couldn’t do so in the short time I was in their shop. They wouldn’t believe me, even when I provided them with the audio recording I listed above. It took them two days to replicate the problem; see my update below.

Get 1,000 Free Supercharging Miles

If you find this, or any of my other Tesla-related posts, useful, and you decide to purchase a Tesla, consider using the following referral link to get 1,000 free supercharging miles:

https://www.tesla.com/referral/roy82744

If working with a Tesla representative, use code roy82744.

Update

Tesla carried out the repair sometime between 13–14 October 2019. (I brought my car in for service on 11 October 2019.) The verbatim resolution from my invoice:

Test drove car with customer could not duplicate noise, let car sit outside to cool off and test drove car again backing up and turning, could not get car to make any abnormal noises, inspected brakes, wheels and tires, Let car sit outside overnight, verified noise, disassembled, cleaned and lubricated and de-burnished, let car sit overnight and retested, noise is no longer present.

Ford SYNC with MyFord Touch Radio Won’t Turn Off in a 2014 Ford Fiesta SE

On Thursday, 21 June 2018, the radio in my 2014 Ford Fiesta SE would not turn off. (For identification purposes, my car has a Ford SYNC with MyFord Touch radio.) I also couldn’t turn down the volume using the volume knob on the dash or the volume buttons on the left side of the steering wheel. I knew removing the negative battery cable would reset the radio and solve the problem, but so would removing the radio’s fuse, which would be easier.

I chose the latter.

The owner’s manual indicates that there are two fuse boxes: One underneath the hood on the driver side, and one behind the glove box on the passenger side. The radio-based fuses are in the fuse box located behind the glove box.

2014 Ford Fiesta SE Fuse Box Behind Glove Box
2014 Ford Fiesta SE Fuse Box Behind Glove Box

Fuse 10 (15A), marked F10, is the fuse for an “Audio unit, SYNC” radio, while fuse 24 (7.5A), marked F24, is the fuse for an “Audio unit.” Because I have a SYNC-based radio, F24 is rightfully missing; F10 appears in the top right group of fuses. (See below.)

2014 Ford Fiesta SE Fuse Box Behind Glove Box, with Fuse F10 Highlighted
2014 Ford Fiesta SE Fuse Box Behind Glove Box, with Fuse F10 Highlighted

With the car off and the key extracted from the ignition switch, I removed F10, waited five seconds, then replaced the fuse.

It’s been five days since this occurred and the problem has not resurfaced.

Update (7 November 2018)

Radio is still working fine; problem has not recurred.

Update (9 August 2018)

Radio is still working fine.

 

The Lofree Mechanical Keyboard — An Awkward Layout

The Hong Kong-based start-up lofree is manufacturing a typewriter-inspired mechanical keyboard that was recently crowdfunded at Indiegogo. I purchased one for $79. It arrived on 12 June 2017.

Keyboard Layout: Numeric and Function Rows Misaligned

The main video on the campaign’s homepage claims — at time 0:48 — that the lofree keyboard “features the exact same keyboard layout as Apple’s Magic Keyboard.”

This isn’t true, and many people have expressed their discontent about this in the Comments section of the product’s Indiegogo page.

The numeric row and the function row of keys have been shifted to the right by a key, effectively forcing touch typists to re-learn how to type.

Number row highlighted in original lofree keyboard layout
Highlighting the original, misaligned number row on the lofree keyboard.

If you’re willing to re-learn the layout and this will be your only keyboard, then stop reading. For the rest of us who use multiple machines, however, the layout is unacceptable.

Keyboard Layout: Fix

Lofree advised me (and others) to use Karabiner to fix the keyboard layout, but Karabiner doesn’t work in macOS Sierra. Thus, I set out to create a layout that works in all modern versions of Mac OS X.

My fix is available on GitHub.

The layout re-aligns the numeric row back to the standard position, not the function row. The back tick/tilde key, now a dead key, is placed to the left of the delete, and the toggling you’d get with command + ` (back tick) is converted to a three-key combination: command + control + 1.

Shifted number row highlighted in lofree keyboard layout
The number row shifted back into the traditional position, with the back tick key, now a dead key, positioned to the left of the delete key.

As for reliability, I’ve used the layout for two weeks in Mac OS X 10.11 El Capitan and macOS 10.12 Sierra without incident.

How I Installed the 2003 Konica Minolta DiMAGE Scan Dual IV 35mm Film Scanner in Windows 10

Burden: ~15 minutes

[The Konica Minolta DiMAGE Scan Dual IV. ]
The Konica Minolta DiMAGE Scan Dual IV

Download Software

First, download the software required for the installation.

  1. Download the Windows XP version of the DiMAGE Scan Dual IV software from the scanner’s home page.
  2. Copy the following content, which I found in this blog post at Fixya, into a text file called sonyscanners.inf
    ; sonyscanners.inf -- Sony (Konica Minolta) Film Drivers
    ;
    ;
    ; Beta driver for Windows Vista and Windows 7 operating
    ; systems for all known Sony film scanners.
    [Version]
    Signature="$CHICAGO$"
    Class=Image
    ClassGUID={6bdd1fc6-810f-11d0-bec7-08002be2092f}
    Provider=%Provider%
    DriverVer=2/19/2011,3.0
    [Manufacturer]
    %Mfg%=Models,ntamd64
    [Models]
    ; USB and SCSI scanners
    "Minolta Scan Dual II" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_0638&Pid_026a
    "Minolta Scan Dual III" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_0686&Pid_400d
    "Minolta Scan Dual IV" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_132b&Pid_000a
    "Minolta Scan Elite 5400 2" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_132b&Pid_0012
    "Minolta Scan Elite 5400" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_0686&Pid_400e
    "Minolta Scan Elite II" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_0686&Pid_4004
    "Minolta SC-110" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_0638&Pid_0a15
    "Minolta SC-215" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_0638&Pid_0a16
    "Minolta QuickScan 35" = SCSIScanner,SCSI\ScannerMINOLTA_#2880___________
    "Minolta Scan Dual" = SCSIScanner,SCSI\ScannerMINOLTA_#2882___________
    "Minolta Scan Multi" = SCSIScanner,SCSI\ScannerMINOLTA_#2883___________
    "Minolta Scan Speed" = SCSIScanner,SCSI\ScannerMINOLTA_#2884___________
    "Minolta Scan Elite" = SCSIScanner,SCSI\ScannerMINOLTA_#2885___________
    "Minolta Scan Elite 5400 Firewire" = SBP2Scanner,SBP2\MINOLTA&DS_Elite5400&CmdSetId104d8
    [Models.ntamd64]
    ; USB and SCSI scanners
    "Minolta Scan Dual II" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_0638&Pid_026a
    "Minolta Scan Dual III" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_0686&Pid_400d
    "Minolta Scan Dual IV" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_132b&Pid_000a
    "Minolta Scan Elite 5400 2" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_132b&Pid_0012
    "Minolta Scan Elite 5400" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_0686&Pid_400e
    "Minolta Scan Elite II" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_0686&Pid_4004
    "Minolta SC-110" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_0638&Pid_0a15
    "Minolta SC-215" = USBScanner,USB\Vid_0638&Pid_0a16
    "Minolta QuickScan 35" = SCSIScanner,SCSI\ScannerMINOLTA_#2880___________
    "Minolta Scan Dual" = SCSIScanner,SCSI\ScannerMINOLTA_#2882___________
    "Minolta Scan Multi" = SCSIScanner,SCSI\ScannerMINOLTA_#2883___________
    "Minolta Scan Speed" = SCSIScanner,SCSI\ScannerMINOLTA_#2884___________
    "Minolta Scan Elite" = SCSIScanner,SCSI\ScannerMINOLTA_#2885___________
    "Minolta Scan Elite 5400 Firewire" = SBP2Scanner,SBP2\MINOLTA&DS_Elite5400&CmdSetId104d8
    [USBScanner]
    Include=sti.inf
    Needs=STI.USBSection
    SubClass=StillImage
    DeviceType=1
    DeviceSubType=1
    Capabilities=0
    [USBScanner.Services]
    Include=sti.inf
    Needs=STI.USBSection.Services
    [SCSIScanner]
    Include=sti.inf
    Needs=STI.SCSISection
    SubClass=StillImage
    DeviceType=1
    DeviceSubType=1
    Capabilities=0
    [SCSIScanner.Services]
    Include=sti.inf
    Needs=STI.SCSISection.Services
    [SBP2Scanner]
    Include=sti.inf
    Needs=STI.SBP2Section
    SubClass=StillImage
    DeviceType=1
    DeviceSubType=2
    Capabilities=0
    [SBP2Scanner.Services]
    Include=sti.inf
    Needs=STI.SBP2Section.Services
    [Strings]
    Provider="Sony (Konica Minolta)"
    Mfg="Sony (Konica Minolta)"

Install the Scanner Software

  1. Run DD4103E.exe, which extracts setup files Setup.exe and ADBSetup.exe
  2. Run Setup.exe
  3. Run ADBSetup.exe
  4. Restart your computer

Update the Driver

Updating the driver requires your having to relax the digital signature restrictions on your computer temporarily, then restarting to ensure the restrictions are re-instated.

  1. Holding the shift key, restart your computer
  2. Click/tap Troubleshoot then Advanced options then Startup Settings then Restart
  3. Choose 7) Disable driver signature enforcement by hitting the F7 key
  4. With the computer restarted, context-click (right-click for right-handed users) the sonyscanners.inf file you created at the beginning of this tutorial, then choose Install
  5. Connect the scanner, turn it on, then launch the DiMAGE Scan Dual4 Utility software
  6. Once you’ve verified that the scanner works, restart your computer one more time

Baking an Early 2008 MacBook Pro Logic Board

A friend recently gave me his 2008 MacBook Pro because its logic board died. I discovered online that many people had some success in reviving a dead logic board by baking it in an oven. I tried that. It worked.

Update (1 June 2015)

The laptop has died. I read online that the baking procedure only revives the computer for a few months. In my case, it lasted 2.5 months. It’s not worth all the trouble, so to the e-waste warehouse it goes.

Avoid Lacie’s iamaKey Flash Drive

In February 2012, I purchased a Lacie iamaKey, which carries a 2-year warranty. Seventeen months later, in July of 2013, the drive stopped working—it wouldn’t mount in Mac, Windows, or Linux. Nothing I tried was able to revive it; Lacie replaced it. (I had to provide LaCie with proof of my having destroyed the broken drive before they would replace it.)

A destroyed LaCie iamaKey
A destroyed LaCie iamaKey (July 2013).

Eighteen months later, the replacement died—the drive became write-protected, and the protection could not be removed. The replacement drive only carries a 3-month warranty, so no replacement for the replacement. (The replacement was destroyed because I’m showing my disdain for this company.)

Another destroyed LaCie iamaKey (February 2015).
Another destroyed LaCie iamaKey (February 2015).

So, the original drive failed about a year and a half after I purchased it, and its replacement died exactly a year and a half later. Perhaps a coincidence.

These drives look cool, are convenient to carry, and are designed to be carted around on a keychain with other keys. They are, however, too unreliable. I have a SanDisk Cruzer that is about 8 years old, is encased in plastic, and has taken a beating since 2006. It works perfectly.